Have you ever crossed the border between Sweden and Norway in the high north? It feels like flipping a switch – from Sweden’s rounded landscapes, open horizons, and great calm to Norway’s jagged peaks and wild, rugged terrain. The transition seems to happen in a split second right there on the border. This route lets you experience that magical shift twice, revealing a wide variety of landscapes. The cultural contrasts are just as striking: Swedish forest villages are strongholds of Sami language and traditions, while Norwegian coastal communities have exported cod for a thousand years. The differences are noticeable in architecture, clothing, the food on your plate and even the speaking style – soft spoken in Northern Sweden and brasher on the Norwegian side.

We start in Bodø – or Kiruna – or Harstad/Narvik

We’ve designed this tour as a circuit because it’s usually cheaper to fly in and out of the same airport. Returning a rental car to a different location can be prohibitively expensive, so it’s best to end your journey where you started. Our description begins in Bodø, which has a well-connected airport, but Kiruna is just as convenient. Harstad/Narvik also offers national and international connections. Start wherever you like. Our route runs clockwise from Bodø, but you can just as easily do it in the opposite direction – and take as many detours as you like.

Bodø – the city in the wind

Bodø is a growing, vibrant city and the European Capital of Culture in 2024. It is also unmistakably coastal, with a busy port and a strong maritime character. Spend your day at the National Aviation Museum, the historic Jekt Trade Museum – essential for understanding Northern Norway’s history – and the Nordland Museum. Then, enjoy a seafood dinner before exploring the city’s lively bars. And above all, make the most of the views – both from the waterfront and from Keiservarden, a mountain offering sweeping panoramas towards the Lofoten Islands.

Saltstraumen and Kjerringøy – scenic highlights outside Bodø

One of the world’s strongest tidal currents is found just outside Bodø. From the bridge or the shoreline, watch Saltstraumen’s swirling waters as whirlpools and upwellings reveal the immense power hidden beneath the surface – a spectacle that occurs four times a day. Kjerringøy, on the other hand, offers a different kind of fascination. This historic trading post, with its well-preserved buildings and interiors, makes for a rewarding detour north of Bodø.

Bodø-Lofoten: The ferry Bodø-Moskenes takes four hours.

The Lofoten Islands rise from the Gulf Stream

You see them from the ferry – towering 800–1000 metres above the sea – stretching more than 100 km in length. This is the so-called Lofotveggen, the Lofoten Wall. These legendary islands consist of four larger landmasses and hundreds of smaller islets, forming a dramatic landscape of mountains, colourful villages, and farmland. The ferry crossing from Bodø to Moskenes gives you access to the entire chain by road. Stop at as many fishing villages, art installations, historic sites, and beaches as you can – and take on a few short but brutally steep hikes to breathtaking viewpoints.

The rorbuer – traditional fishermen’s huts – are the region’s signature accommodation. They range from rustic and simple to fully equipped with modern comforts.

The distance from the Moskenes ferry dock to Svolvær, at Lofoten’s eastern end, is around 125 km and could theoretically be driven in 2.5 hours. But with so much to see, it could just as easily take a couple of days. Plan wisely – and start with our recommendations.

Western Lofoten is stark and untamed

A string of small villages lines the southeastern coast of Moskenes Island, from Å through Sørvågen and Reine. Red and ochre-painted rorbuer, trading posts, and colourful modern houses sit beneath towering, majestic peaks. Don’t miss the Fishing Village Museum in Å or a boat trip to the tiny fishing hamlets around Kirkefjord. Further east, Ramberg boasts a dream-like beach and the picturesque Flakstad Church. Detours lead to the well-preserved village of Nusfjord and the smith in Sund.

Surfing and Vikings are found in central Lofoten

The island of Vestvågøy is divided into three parts – the southeastern coast is home to more picturesque fishing villages, notably Ballstad, Mortsund, and Stamsund. The northwestern coast is the exact opposite: weather-beaten, open, and with unobstructed sea views and epic beaches. Surfers gather at Unstad in the autumn for that fabled left wave. In between, the lush valley around Borg is dominated by the Lofotr Viking House, which at 80 metres in length is one of the longest of its kind in the Viking world.

Head to eastern Lofoten for history and urban delights

Henningsvær combines its history as a leading fishing village with arts and crafts, good food, and some nightlife, all centred around the most picturesque harbour imaginable. The oldest fishing village, Kabelvåg, is both colourful and historic. It boasts a historical museum, an aquarium, and Galleri Espolin, dedicated to the Lofoten artist. Finally, Svolvær is a funky, youthful town with bars and art galleries amid fish racks beneath Svolværgeita.
Svolvær to Harstad (170 km, 3 hours)
Looming dark mountains towering over tiny settlements, the bridge across the Raftsundet Strait, and then greener, agricultural lands – the drive is wonderfully varied and scenic. Consider the ferry crossing Flesnes-Refsnes for a drive through the green and lush countryside along Kvæfjord

Harstad is that friendly city

Anyone in northern Norway will tell you, “It’s so cosy in Harstad” – and the small city is indeed atmospheric. A leisurely and very scenic walk from the centre takes you to the 13th-century church of Trondenes, the world’s northernmost medieval church, filled with art. Next to it, the Trondenes Historic Centre offers a full overview of the region’s history, with the Middle Ages coming to life just outside in a medieval farm. The Adolf Gun, the largest artillery piece made during WWII, is also here. In autumn, the products from the agricultural lands around Harstad are transformed into tasty dishes at the city’s renowned restaurants. Opt for comfortable accommodation in the city centre, or seek out historical sites near town.

Harstad to Narvik: 100 km and less than two hours’ drive

Two impressive bridges, the Tjeldsundbrua and the Hålogalandsbrua, along with fjord views, forests, mountains, and a welcoming atmosphere, make for an entertaining drive.

Abisko – The mountain resort with a difference

Abisko is a small settlement and popular mountain resort on the shores of Lake Torneträsk, nestled between the border mountains and the forest. Its low precipitation and clear skies  make it an ideal location for viewing the Northern Lights. Take the chairlift to the top of Mount Njullá for panoramic views of the lake and the Tjuonavagge – the Laponian Gate – a striking U-shaped pass between two towering mountains. The nearby Abisko National Park offers week-long hiking opportunities, but you can also explore easy trails to the Abiskojåkka canyons, Kårsa waterfall, and other scenic spots. Accommodation and dining are in the Scandinavian Mountain style, with hearty, locally sourced food and a drink by the fireplace, perfect after a day of outdoor adventure.

Abisko to Kiruna: 1,5 hours, 80 km.

The road follows the lake and the Malmbanan (Iron Ore Railway) with several railway stations on the way.

Kiruna – The city on the move

Located in the heart of the north of Arctic Sweden, Kiruna was founded in 1900 due to the region’s extraordinarily rich iron ore deposits. Today, the city is reinventing itself, as newly found iron deposits beneath the city require the relocation of both its centre and some residential areas. A visit to the mine and a tour of the city’s new architecture offers fascinating insight into this high mountain town. For a glimpse into Kiruna’s Sámi heritage, head to nearby Jukkasjärvi. The charming 1726 church, the Márkanbáiki open-air museum and experiences at the Nutti Sámi Siida offer a look into the Sámi and Finnish history of these remote mountain regions. Activities range from easy hikes to wilderness viewpoints to helicopter trips around Sweden’s highest peak, Kebnekaise. The original Ice Hotel, now open year-round, allows you to experience staying in an ice igloo long before the first snow of Autumn. There are plenty of more conventional accommodation options available too. Kiruna and Jukkasjärvi are also excellent spots to explore Sámi cuisine.

Kiruna-Gällivarre: 123 km and less than two hours’ drive

The mining community of Svappavaara is known for the Ormen Långe – a long apartment building designed by renowned architect Ralph Erskine.

Gällivare is the mining town by the foot of Mount Dundret

Where the Scandes transition into the subboreal forests, you’ll find the mining town of Gällivarre. Mining dates back to the 1690 here. Sightseers visit the old church from 1754, paid for by every household in Sweden, each contributing 1 öre (a subdivision of the Swedish krona) every year for four years. It was part of a missionary effort among the Sami. The Hembygdsområde – Heritage area – is a collection of old houses from across the vast municipal area, offering a journey through history and ethnicities in the forested regions. The Dundret mountain is crisscrossed with easy to moderate trails, leading you through the forest up to breathtaking views. The Gällivarre museum displays both the Sami heritage of the area and its mining history. Comfortable accommodation and affordable options can be found in town, while the surrounding countryside offers unique stays with history close to nature.

Gällivare to Jokkmokk

Porjus and Harsprånget are giant hydro-electric power stations. The natural fika stop in Porjus can be extended with a visit to the power station.

Jokkmokk: A Sámi Centre

Jokkmokk, located between lakes and rivers in the sub-boreal forest, has long been an important meeting place and cultural hub for the Lule Sámi people, who speak a Sami language with only a few hundred speakers today. The Àjjte Swedish Mountain and Sámi Museum, offers a unique glimpse into Sámi culture, with exhibits showcasing traditional handicrafts, costumes, silver jewellery, and ancient religious practices. The 1752church, rebuilt after a fire in 1976, stands as a reminder of the missionary era in Swedish Sámi territories.

Jokkmokk’s Sámi identity is further reflected in the numerous craft shops and workshops in the area. Visitors can also experience local cuisine, with dishes inspired by the forests and lakes that surround the town. The botanical garden offers a stunning display of vibrant autumn colours, making it a must-see in the autumn.

Whether you’re looking for a charming, traditional stay or a boutique experience close to nature, Jokkmokk offers a welcoming, homely atmosphere.

Jokkmokk to Arvidsjaur
As you drive through the boreal forests, you can’t help but wonder about the tiny, remote communities scattered along the way. A perfect stop is the Rallarmuseet (Navvy Museum) in the old, now-closed railway station at Moskosel, where visitors can explore the history of the workers who built the railway “Inland railway” you’re driving along..

Arvidsjaur: A Meeting Place in the Forest

Arvidsjaur – “the generous lake” – has always been a good place to come to. The Lappstaden – “Sámi church town” – is a collection of traditional buildings that once housed the Sámi nomadic population during important Christian holidays. Gathered around the church, the 81 buildings are mostly owned by the families who used to come here to go to church. Some of the buildings are tiny kåtor – tent-shaped wooden constructions – while others are more conventional log cabins, all offering insight into traditional Sami architecture. The church itself is a monumental wooden structure. Situated in the low-growing boreal forest, the town offers many easy walks into nature. One popular spot is the Grodkällan (Frog Source), a favourite for many, though there are many more to explore. The small-town centre boasts a surprising number of bars, a legacy of the European car industry, which use the area to test-drive new models in tough winter conditions. Be sure to study the hotel options carefully – there’s no shortage of accommodations, all rich in personality, ranging from budget to luxury.

Arvidsjaur to Arjeplog: We are now on Silvervägen – the Silver Road – running from Skellefteå to Bodø.

Arjeplog: The Town on the Mountain Lakes

Ever heard of a mountain archipelago? The small town of Arjeplog, situated so high up that the forest begins to thin out, lies on Lake Hemavan. From the town centre, the view is punctuated by small birch-clad islets – forming a picturesque archipelago. A simple walk along the lake might be the first thing you do. However, don’t miss the Silver Museum, which offers an in-depth look at Arjeplog’s history as a silver mining town dating back to the 17th century. A collection of Sámi architecture takes you back in time, while the Silver Hall showcases Sami silverware in all its glory. The Swedish fika – a coffee break with a sweet treat – takes on a whole new meaning when served with cheese in Sámi style and dried reindeer meat. The 400-metre climb up to Mount Galtispuoda rewards you with a view that stretches from the Norwegian border to Padjelanta National Park. However, it may be the view of Hornavan Lake from above, dotted with islands, that leaves the strongest impression. Arjeplog is a popular destination in winter for the European car industry and offers a variety of accommodation options, ranging from small hotels and lodges to budget-friendly choices.

Crossing the mountains to Norway

The Silvervägen rises steadily towards the Norwegian border, and the forest gradually gives way to mountain vegetation. Crossing the Arctic Circle can be celebrated at Vuoggatjålme with a fika, a dinner, or even an overnight stay. Just before the Norwegian border, the highest point of the road is reached, at 740 metres. The Junkerdalen Valley is known for its rich botany. In Rognan, we recommend a stop at the Blodveimuseet – a museum dedicated to prisoners of war from Serbia who were used as slave labour during the Second World War. From Fauske, one can take a detour to the old mining town of Sulitjelma.

Worth noting about the tour:

·   The whole tour is some 1350 kilometres. One could easily spend ten days, especially if you go on many of the easy hikes we suggest. If you do it in one week, there is less time to smell the flowers, but you’ll still be able to see all the major attractions, eat well and have

·   Autumn is a nice time to do this, as the insects are gone, the tourist crowd thinner, the Northern Lights reappear from September onwards and the autumn colours can be fantastic. Listen to the weather forecast and have extra clothes and some food in the car.   

·   Driving is probably safer than where you come from, given the good road standard and the limited traffic. Beware of the following, though:

o   Elk/moose and reindeer cross the road unannounced

o   In the autumn, you might wake up to frost and even a layer of snow. Usually, it all melts during the day, so another cup of coffee is often the solution. If it persists, you should look at getting winter tyres.

o   There can be snow on the border crossings already in September. Winter tyres is the solution. Download a weather app, and consult it frequently.

o   Some of the roads on the Norwegian side are narrow and winding, this is especially true in the Lofoten archipelago. Drive slowly.

·   The autumn sees less traffic than both the summer and the winter. However, we do recommend prebooking accommodation. Also the ferry Bodø-Moskenes is a good idea to prebook

·   The Northern Lights can be seen in mid-August. However, your chances of spotting them increase as the nights get longer. By mid-September you have as good chances as in mid-Winter, helped by a increased atmospheric activity around the equinox.

·   The autumn weather is entertaining. We of course hope for mild, nippy autumn days, with possible frost at night – the latter especially true in the inland. Wet and windy weather from the Atlantic is also typical, sometimes with storms hitting the coastal and mountain areas. Northern winds can cause snow – especially at high altitudes.