A plank walkway takes you to Lake Golddajávri, a small lake beneath the Keel Range, and to the yellow-painted cairn marking the point where three countries meet. This remote point is the inspiration for a route criss-crossing the very top of Europe. Autumn landscapes, shifting weather, and excellent chances to see the Northern Lights, combined with ancient traditions and modern Arctic life, ensure there is never a dull moment on this tour.

How the tour works:

·   Our suggested circuit is ideal in the (mostly) snow -free Autumn period from late August to early November.

·   For a peaceful zen experience – spend 10 days and include lots of relaxation. For an entertaining and varied, but not too stressful tour, spend a week. The impatient can do it in a long week-end.

·   Total driving distance is some 1150 km. The roads are of a high standard, and especially in Finland you can expect to do 70-80 km an hour, a bit slower in Norway.

·    Kittilä, Tromsø, Harstad/Narvik and Kiruna are airports with international flights, and you can start and finish the circuit from and to any of them.

·   The autumn is not a particularly busy time in the north. However, it is still a good idea to pre-book accommodation and the activities you really want to do.

Who should go on this tour?

This is a tour for the curious travellers, into beautiful landscapes and closeness to nature. Equally, understanding the people who live here, their daily lives, heritage and cooking, is part of the tour. We have also suggested easy hikes lasting from half an hour up to 3-4 hours, that can be done by most people. And like a smorgasbord you can pick and choose what tempts you the most.

The tour begins in Levi… or perhaps Tromsø… or even Kiruna?

We’ve drawn an uneven circle around the cairn, covering three countries. The circle is because airfares are often cheaper when flying in and out of the same airport and returning a rental car across borders can be expensive. However, where on the circle you start, is up to you.  Our description begins in Kittilä/Levi– it had to start somewhere – but you might choose flying in to Kiruna in Sweden, or maybe in Tromsø or Harstad/Narvik in Norway. . This article is meant as inspiration, not a fixed itinerary, so feel free to adapt it to create your own journey.

Levi is in the heart of the Finnish fells

Emerging from Finland’s deep forests and lakelands, the Levi fell area rises to an altitude of 530 metres. Here, you hike on well-marked trails along the rivers and lakes to viewpoints overlooking the fell area. In autumn, the gently undulating hillsides are covered in fifty shades of yellow, contrasting with the deep green of the conifers and the shimmering surfaces of lakes and rivers. Canoeing and kayaking on the rivers and lakes enhance the zen-like atmosphere; you can even enjoy a serene lake cruise. Another option is to join the locals in their favourite autumn pastime: mushroom and berry picking.

Levi is a developed resort with several hubs, complete with restaurants, bars, and a touch of shopping. In the autumn, the mood here is mellow, mature, and endlessly relaxed.

•   Tip: Sip a glass of wine and wait for the Northern Lights from the sky bar at Levi Panorama Hotel.
•   Tip: Visit the Reidar Särestöniemi Museum to explore the work of this celebrated artist in his riverside atelier on the Ounasjoki river.
•   Tip: The Shoppi Craft and Design is the place for real, authentic souvenirs from the area
•   Samiland exhibition https://samiland.fi/en/ where you can learn about Sami culture.

Levi (Kittilä) – Muonio: 1 + hours, 80 km.·   Stop at the Särkituntuni parking lot (46 km from Sirkka in Levi)  for that capturing photo shot of the fells. Make it a short stop or do the 3,2 km trail to Särkitunturi through the forest of sculptural pines. https://www.luontoon.fi/en/trails/sarkitunturin-saavutus-trail-muonio-191019-en

Muonio takes you into another world – literally

The riverside village of Muonio lies along the border with Sweden, surrounded by dense forests and hills. Stop here for easy yet rewarding hikes, complemented by hearty local food and cosy accommodation.

The Ring of Taivaskero takes you on a loop-shaped trail up the Pallas fells. From the 809 metre Taivaskero summit, you have a wide view of fells, hills and interconnecting lakes.  The 9 kilometre loop trail has an elevation of 500 metres, and should take anywhere from 2,5 to 4 hours.

The canyon lake of Äkassaivo, with its dramatic rock formations, is linked to Sámi mythology and is seen as a path to the underworld. Just as divine are the Äijäkoski rapids on the Muonio River. The old, weathered fishing cabins at Kemiötunturi are a stunning example of cultural heritage and are wonderfully picturesque. Afterward, take a hike up the mountain for panoramic views of Lake Jerisjärvi. It’s all easy to do.

Tip: relax your mind and body in the Arctic Sauna World https://harriniva.fi/en/arctic-sauna-world/

Muonio-Kilpisjärvi: 2,5 hours, 200 km. Careful with the reindeer!

Kilpisjärvi is the gateway to three countries

At Finland’s northwestern tip, beneath the towering Saana Mountain, Kilpisjärvi is a village found deep into the wilderness. The Three Country Cairn, where Sweden, Norway, and Finland meet, can be reached by a boat ride on Lake Kilpisjärvi followed by a three-kilometre hike along the Swedish border. For a stunning view, hike up Mount Saana, standing 1,029 metres tall, where you can see Finland’s highest peak, Halti to the northeast, Baras in Norway to the west, and into Sweden to the south. Local guides can also take you further into the wild or out onto the lakes in a canoe. Kilpisjärvi boasts a well-established hospitality industry, with comfortable accommodation and excellent local food.Kilpisjärvi – Tromsø through Lyngen Alps: 3,5 hours – 200 km

The landscape changes the minute you cross the border; the E8 goes in twists and turns down the Skibotn Valley to the old market place of Skibotn on the fjord. Surrounded by 1500 metre high mountains, you do notice the change. Follow the fjordside E8 to Oteren, then take a right on the country road to Lyngseidet. Then you drive along the Lyngen Alps to the pretty fjordside village of Lyngseidet, before turning towards Tromsø. Dress warmly for the 20 minutes ferry crossing of the Ullsfjord. Total distance:

Stops along the route:

·   The hike to Steindalsbreen glacier takes 3-4 hours, and allow you to see a glacier up close

·   The Lyngentrappa steps allow you great view, 1-2 hours’ hike

Tromsø – the gateway to the Arctic

The biggest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is a lively, colourful and historical hub for fishing, research, and good times. Polaria, an interactive centre, features seals and fish from the area, while the Polar Museum shares tales of Arctic exploration and hunting. The Arctic Cathedral, with its impressive stained-glass windows, is a must-see. The view from the cable car captures islands, fjords, and mountains stretching out before you. In Tromsø, dining on Arctic fish, enjoying a drink in tall glasses, and chatting with the locals always feels right. Plenty of boat trips and outdoor activities are available, and you can join the locals on the many marked trails winding through the surrounding mountains.

Tip: Try dogsledding on wheels at Tromsø Wilderness Centre, just outside of town.

Tromsø  to Narvik: 4 hours, 230 km

The light birch forest along the route is ablaze with colours some weeks in the autumn, and the landscape varies from fjords to river valleys and mountain crossings.

·   Sculpture on the Målselvfossen

·   Church of Bardu from 1829

·   Polar Park is a safari park with animals from the area.

Narvik – War history and grandiose fjords

Narvik is set in one of the most dramatic landscapes, surrounded by mountains rising 1,200 to 1,500 metres from the Ofotfjord. In April-May 1940, the Battle of Narvik marked Hitler’s first defeat, with soldiers from multiple nations involved. The Narvik War Museum offers a comprehensive insight into the battle. From Mount Narvikfjellet, at 656 metres, you can take in views of fjords, mountains, the city, and the ships arriving to load iron from Northern Sweden. The scenic railway to Riksgränsen in Sweden takes less than an hour, offering breathtaking views along the way. Organised tours include fast RiB boat rides on the fjord and cave explorations, and there are plenty of marked hiking trails to explore. Comfortable accommodation, good dining, and a friendly drink in a welcoming spot are easy to find.

Narvik to Abisko: 1,25 hours, 80 km

The drive from Narvik to Abisko is a grand farewell to the fjords. As you cross the border, you meet a  high-altitude, open landscapes with monumental mountains. Almost immediately after the border, you see the big lake of Torneträsk.

Abisko – The mountain resort with a difference

Abisko is a small settlement and popular mountain resort on the shores of Lake Torneträsk, nestled between the border mountains and the forest. Its low precipitation and clear skies  make it an ideal location for viewing the Northern Lights. Take the chairlift to the top of Mount Njullá for panoramic views of the lake and the Tjuonavagge – the Laponian Gate – a striking U-shaped pass between two towering mountains. The nearby Abisko National Park offers week-long hiking opportunities, but you can also explore easy trails to the Abiskojåkka canyons, Kårsa waterfall, and other scenic spots. Accommodation and dining are in the Scandinavian Mountain style, with hearty, locally sourced food and a drink by the fireplace, perfect after a day of outdoor adventure.

Abisko to Kiruna: 1,5 hours, 80 km

Kiruna – The city on the move

Located in the heart of Northernmost Sweden, Kiruna was founded in 1900 due to the region’s extraordinarily rich iron ore deposits. Today, the city is reinventing itself, as newly found iron deposits beneath the town centre require the relocation of both its centre and some residential areas. A visit to the mine and a tour of the city’s new architecture offers fascinating insight into this high mountain city. For a glimpse into Kiruna’s Sámi heritage, head to nearby Jukkasjärvi. The charming 1726 church and the Márkanbáiki open-air museum offer a look into the Sámi and Finnish history of this multi-ethnic region. Activities range from easy hikes to viewpoints overlooking the landscape to helicopter trips around Sweden’s highest peak, Kebnekaise. The original Icehotel, now open year-round, allows you to experience staying in an ice igloo long before the first snow of Autumn. There are plenty of more conventional accommodation options available too. Kiruna and Jukkasjärvi are also excellent spots to explore Sámi cuisine, notably in Nutti Sámi Siida.

Kiruna to Pajala: 2,5 hours – 183 km.

Pajala – Traditional forest culture

Nestled in a landscape of deep forests, mighty rivers, and gentle hills, Pajala is a hub of Tornedalian culture. Most of the population speaks Meänkieli, the Tornedalian cousin of Finnish. A surprising heritage site is Vassikavuoma, a traditional flood meadow historically used in Tornedalian agriculture for haymaking. In the autumn light, you can explore the wooden walkways leading to 80 well-preserved barns in this unique cultural landscape. For more insight into Tornedalian culture, visit the home of preacher Lars Levi Laestadius, local handicraft workshops, and sample traditional food. For a sweeping view of the landscape, hike up to the 277-metre high Jupukka hill. At the summit, a small cross marks one of the 34 geodetic measurement points from the 19th century, which together form the Struve Geodetic Arc, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Kengisforsen rapids are a spectacular sight, with torrents of water rushing through the gorge. Accommodation in Pajala blends history, nature, and individuality, offering options from budget to more comfortable stays.

Pajala to Ylläsjärvi: 1 hours, 65 km. On the way, you cross the border between Sweden and Finland by crossing the Torne älv/Torniojoki river.

Ylläs – The fell area for outdoor activities

The Pallas-Ylläs National Park is a vast wilderness of fells, forests, and waterways. Its beauty lies in its accessibility: a developed resort area that welcomes both seasoned hikers and inexperienced city dwellers alike. Seven fells surround the villages of Äkäslompolo and Ylläsjärvi, with Yllästunturi standing tallest at 719 metres, inviting exploration. Well-marked trails, campfire sites, and even the occasional café make it all safe and convenient, yet there is still plenty of space to hear nothing but your own breath.

Quiet is also the key when packrafting and canoeing on the calm rivers. The easy option is, of course, taking the lift to the viewpoint at the top of Ylläs, while the bike park adds a dose of adrenaline. You can even join a bike course—or take a more relaxed approach by using the extensive network of bike paths.

Bikes are rented out in several shops in both villages

As a well-developed resort area, Ylläs offers no shortage of comfortable accommodation and organised tours. Among the many excellent restaurants, we recommend seeking out dishes made with ingredients from the area’s forests and lakes.

Some 25 km away, a short hike to the sinkhole lake of  Pakasaivo, offers an almost otherworldly experience. Known as the “Hell of Lapland,” it’s believed to be a gateway to the Sámi underworld of Saivo.

The final lap goes Ylläsjärvi – Kittilä 40 km – a good half an hour.